Installing an “eBay Special” Snorkel on a Lexus GX470

When I lifted my 09 GX470 I knew I wanted to do some mild off roading and so far, it’s been great for that. But I decided I really liked the look of a Snorkel. For those not familiar, on the GX and many vehicles, the intake air comes from the inner fender. So the airbox has a tube that just opens into the fender, and that’s it. This can cause problems when crossing deep water, as it can suck in water, or even if hitting a deep puddle and lots of water sloshing up into the fender. Now the air box does have drains in it, but it’s possible to get enough water in that it hydrolocks your engine, which is not good. So the snorkel raises the height of your intake to roof level, which also helps in regards to dust. So anyway, there are multiple options ranging in prices. I opted for a popular choice which is known as the “eBay Special” that I picked up for about $130. Now this model is for the Prado 120, so you would think it should work, but not without some work.

This job is not for the faint of heart. If you aren’t comfortable cutting some bigass holes in your car, as well as cutting plastic and unbolting things, this is not the job for you. Anyway, onto the work.

Preparation Work

First off, remove the fender liner, and the wheel. I’ve seen tutorial videos and posts, and a lot of people don’t remove the wheel, which seems to just make things really difficult. So anyway, let’s start there. But first, hydration. Always make sure to keep water around, getting dehydrated is no fun:

Water!
Fender liner removed. You can see where you are going.
Airbox removed.

Once you remove the airbox, there are 3 10mm bolts (pretty short) holding the fender on, and then open up the passenger door, you’ll see a clip holding in a piece of fabric, pull that clip out, then you’ll find another 10mm bolt. These 4 bolts hold the fender on partially, and give you lots of wiggle room. Anyway, now you’re ready to get started on drilling.

Drilling the holes

The snorkel comes with a template. And it’s pretty decent, but it’s not perfect.

How it seems like it should line up.

With the template attached, it seems like you’re ready, but not so fast. I put the snorkel up and realized that it was too far back into the door area. I had to move it about 1/2″ forward, which seemed to line up much better.

How much I had to move it forward. Don’t take the template at face value.

So now once you have test fit, it’s time to drill. I used a step bit, and a 4″ hole saw. Pro-tip: Get a quality hole saw. Mine was part of some $10 kit from Menards or Harbor Freight, and it sucked. Once you have drilled it out, make sure to paint over the exposed metal. Amazingly, the previous owner had a container of OEM touch up paint with the GX and it was still good!

Holes drilled. Note I did have to drill out the holes a bit more (to the next “step” on the bit) to give some more wiggle room. But the big hole was perfect!

Snorkel adjustments

So next is to get the snorkel ready. It comes with threaded rods to insert into the threaded holes. So I sunk them down all the way in. Note, there is an allen head and a smooth end. Make sure the allen head is out, this will make things hella easier later.

Rods inserted. Remember how I said to put the allen head side out? Yea i didn’t realize that on a few.

So now your holes are drilled, and you can test fit. So i did. First problem. Virtually none of the rods actually cleared the fender enough on the inside to catch a nut with the washer. So i realized the threads were not far enough “out” so I used the allen heads to work the threaded rods out another 1/4″ or so. I ended up having to adjust one of them later, inside the fender, so the allen head came in handy and I was able to work it out a couple threads and get the nut to catch. Anyway, now that you’ve verified your holes are good, time for the next piece.

A-Pillar shenanigans

So the kit comes with a bracket with 4 rivets to secure the bracket to the a-pillar. I drilled two holes and realized the rivets were far too long to work in the small A-pillar

Showing how far the rivet stuck out. I suppose I could have pulled it a bit and got it to work, but I went a different direction.

So with the rivets being garbage, I found some sheet metal screws. I filled the holes I already drilled with silicone.

Bracket mounted up. 2 sheet metal screws, plus the old holes filled with silicone.

I put silicone under the bracket, and then screwed into it, then put more silicone on top to seal it up. I ended up putting a bead of silicone all around it to completely seal it up.

Internal Tubing

So now you have the piece connecting the snorkel to the airbox. You’ll have a heck of a time trying to shove it up there. once you do get it in the fender and out both holes, you’ll realize it sticks out way too much. If you put the rubber sleeve on it, you’ll find that it sticks out about an inch. So here comes the trimming:

Trimmed off the snorkel end. It’s pretty rough but I used a Multi-tool after this to smooth it out a bit.
The intake side. Trimmed down about 1/2″

I also trimmed about 1/2″ off the actual snorkel tube. I also trimmed about 1/2″ or so off the rubber sleeve. With all this trimming, i was able to get a perfect fit with the sleeve, and with some clever and uncomfortable wiggling I was able to mate the two together

The sleeve inside the fender with both clamps installed and tightened down. Not all the bolts are attached yet.

Nuts and Bolts

So now it’s time to actually attach things. The front bolt is pretty easy, as long as you can get a thread on it. The back two are also pretty straight forward. I had a heck of a time with the top bolt closest to the fender tube though. Because it was tilted down, I couldn’t get the washer to stick. So I used Super glue. I attached the nut to the washer using some super glue, and then threaded it on with my finger. Worked great! Then the wrench broke the super glue, and i was able to get it tightened down. However there was one that I just could not get to fit inside the fender. The top bolt closest to the passenger door just would not set into the fender. So i didn’t worry about tightening it. Once everything is tightened down, you’re ready for the intake step.

Intake connections

So for the airbox, it has a stock rubber hose piece, and it “clicks” onto the airbox. those little clips get in the way of the rubber sleeve. So i used a multi-tool to shave those pieces off. I did have to slice a small slit in the rubber sleeve to get it to fit completely. But once I did, i was able to again, using some uncomfortable manuevering, get the two mated up

Hard to see, but it’s all connected up.

Final results

It took me the better part of 4 hours to finish this up. I had done most of the fender liner removal, airbox removal and tire removal the night before so that helped out. Those stupid clips are horrible. But now i’m pretty happy with it!

I hope this helps anyone else who buys the eBay Special snorkel. It’s not an easy install but when it’s done it looks pretty darn good!

Davis Vantage Pro 2 Open Weather Station Part 5 – I did a thing!

I’m really excited for this post because I have a prototype temperature/humidity/pressure sensor built! Last night I started to build it out and it only took about 45 minutes total.

Top of the board. BMP180 on the bottom for pressure, SHT35 on the top for temp/humidity.

I started out using an RJ11 cable soldered to the board but it turned out to be very tempermental and not wanting to stay soldered. So for the prototyping phase, I opted to just solder on some breadboard jumpers which worked great.

I decided on the orientation I did because the SCL, SDA, and GND pins were both on the same trace. The only difference was the 3.3 and Vcc. I plan on using 3.3v for everything so I did have to accommodate for that.

It’s not pretty. The connectors between pads are just cut off some resistors I had lying around. I tried tracing with solder but it was just messy.

I decided on ground on one side and vcc on the other, and scl/sda in the middle. It seemed to work pretty well but i’m not sold on that for the final pinout.

Once I plugged it in, it worked! I was getting output from both sensors

I had previously used this Pi Zero for a temperature sensor in my garage, hence the hostname.

In terms of actual connectivity, I think i’m going to solder an RJ11 socket onto the pcb. This will allow easy replacement/removal of the sensor without having to fish a cable again. It will also make soldering easier.

So now the next step will be to start building a PCB design. I still need to prototype boards for soil/moisture as well as the main pcb, so I’ll probably wait to actually submit and order those until later.

Davis Vantage Pro 2 Open Weather Station: Part 4 – Gone with the Wind

I started tackling the wind measurements next. Yet it’s ended up being very frustrating because i’m a dingus and blindly followed directions vs actually thinking logically. What do I mean? Well i’m talking about the wiring when it comes to the anemometer. See I had found this image via http://cactus.io/hookups/weather/anemometer/davis/hookup-arduino-to-davis-anemometer:

In order to test out my sensors, I’d been using an adapter like this

I soldered on some breadboard jumpers to each lead that matched the color. This meant I could plug RJ11 into the breadboards and use all my sensors. Great! Except for one tiny issue….. And I didn’t think about this until about 8:30 tonight after fighting with it for a good 90 minutes. The colors don’t match the colors on the Davis cable. So when I was plugging it into my board using the connections from Cactus.io, It was not the right connections. Everything is reversed!

I knew it had to be my wiring because even with a multimeter I tested things and it came back with no voltage. It just didn’t make sense. So I kept digging and digging and I came across this document and in particular this passage:

Huh. Well that makes sense. This also makes me realize why I burned up my stock Davis Temp/Hum sensor in part 3. Apparently it was not as forgiving about incorrect wiring… Upon reading this page I realized I was not dealing with a straight cable and this was a reversal situation. So I took a look at the colors on the RJ11 end of the Anemometer cable, and then mapped them to the correct colors on the cable. What i came up with was this:

Davis Yellow (Power) is Black
Davis Green (Wind Direction Signal) is Red
Davis Red (Ground) is Green
Davis Black (Wind Speed) is Yellow.

So once I went back downstairs and wired it up like that, it worked! Using code from here I got a basic script working that would show the voltage change as I rotated the wind vane around. Hurray! Coupled with the wind speed switch working as designed, I now have working wind measurements. Considering I bought a large pack of those RJ11 connectors, i’m still gonna use them, but i’m gonna solder them up with the correct color jumpers to match the input so it is straight through to the breadboard.

So that’s exciting. I also got word today my SHT35 will arrive tomorrow along with some project pcbs. This is exciting as I can combine the SHt35 and BMP180 onto the same board and test that functionality out. Once I verify on the breadboard everything will work as designed, I can start building out a prototype of the real new temp/humidity board. I also plan on taking a trip out to the production weather station this weekend and doing some live prototyping with soil moisture/temp sensors and UV/SRAD sensors. Given I now understand ADC, it should be pretty straight forward, but I still gotta make sure I test everything!

Davis Vantage Pro 2 Open Weather Station – Part 3: Mistakes were made

It was an interesting weekend. I got a couple things in the mail so I could finally start doing more prototyping. First off I received the cradlepoint device, so I mocked up what the enclosure might look like.

Mock up in an “Apache” (knock off Harbor Freight Pelican) case. 7Ah lead acid battery, solar controller, Cradlepoint and Pi Zero. Lots of room for activities. Of course the Cradlepoint will have 4G antennas on the outside of the case when it’s done. But for now, at least everything will fit!

So that was nice. I also pulled my VP2 off my pole in the backyard to start prototyping with it’s sensors. That did not go well.

First was the rain gauge. This actually did go well. First I tried to follow the instructions here: https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/build-your-own-weather-station/8 which really was not super accurate and the code was hard to follow. So I started from scratch and read up on the gpiozero “Button” module. Once I figured out which wires did what on the Rain Gauge (I found that Red needed to be Ground, and Green worked for recording the tips. Green was on GPIO6). Now this may not seem like a big accomplishment but up until this point, my experience with GPIO on RPi has been just reading tutorials and copy/pasting stuff. So I figured this all out from scratch so I consider it a learning experience. So now I can count tips. Granted, the code is very simplistic right now and does nothing for rain. But I know how it works and I have a working snippet, so now I can figure out how to actually document rain.

Whoopsie Daisy

This is where the mistakes were made. The temp/humidity sensor. I could not find any solid documentation online about these sensors regarding usage with Arduino or Pi. It also seems Sensiron makes a couple different versions, the most popular being an I2C version. I was not sure what version the VP2 used, so I tried hooking it up via I2C and i found this page (http://www.pibits.net/code/raspberry-pi-sht31-sensor-example.php#codesyntax_1) that I thought would work. Well as i’m finding out, the Davis colors don’t always match the standard colors, and things may be miswired. How did I find this out? Well I know I don’t have Covid-19 because I could smell something very burny. Uh oh.

This is from Peg + Cat. A PBS Kids show. Yes it’s silly but our 20 month old son seems to enjoy it, and frankly my wife and I enjoy it even more. It’s a really cute show and probably our favorite PBS Kids show. So much better than the crap on there (Looking at you Pinkalicious and Peteriffic)

So I took the little filter off the top of the sensor, and it was hot to the touch. Very hot. I unplugged it, but realized at that point i’ve probably fried the sensor. Whooooops.

I love this little prototyping station I printed off for the Pi and a Breadboard. Make it super easy without stuff rolling around to hook things up.

So yea. At this point i’ve managed to fry the standard Davis sensor. But that may be a blessing in disguise.

SHT31. Destroyer of obs?

After some googling, I find out that the SHT31 is not exactly the most accurate sensor, especially in the Davis units:

http://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=36204.0

https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=34658.525

So from what I can tell, the SHT31 that Davis uses is not super accurate. Nor does it use I2C, or even an analog signal. I found this page that describes that the SHT31 uses “Legacy Sensirion Sensibus” or “LSS”. I’ve not found any good documentation online about using this with an RPi or Arduino. So if i’ve already caused myself one problem, I might as well fix it. I’m also trying to fix the reception issue, so I might as well fix the accuracy issue as well. This will make the idea of the system being completely plug and play null. HOWEVER I feel like most ppl that care enough about the accuracy of their station and want to completely convert over to a Pi based system will be keen on replacing the problematic SHT31 so I don’t see it as a big problem.

The Pressure is on…. the same board!

So with that, I opted to get an SHT35 sensor. They come in a few forms, but almost all are shipping from China right now and it’s almost a month wait. But I was able to find this one on Amazon for a good price. Funny enough buying from the manufacturers website ends up taking much longer for shipping. This will be here in a few days. The SHT35 not only has better accuracy, but is I2C. What else is I2C? The BMP180! That will make things easy. One of the big problems is that the pressure sensor is in the Console or Envoy unit. So the plan is to have the BMP and the SHT on the same board in the radiation shield, and use I2C to have them use the same RJ11 cable. Problem Solved! Problem Solved! We solved the problem, problem solved (That’s also from Peg + Cat). So I should know by the end of week if that will work. The other issue is the size of the board.

The non-fan aspirated shield mounts the sensor like this:

That means size wouldn’t really be an issue for that board. But the fan aspirated version (which is what I have at the station i’m upgrading, and i’m not able to find a good pic of) the sensor unit actually slides down into the shield in two “grooves” and so size is important. It’s the same exact sensor, just different mounting. So with that in mind I need to make sure I adhere to the same size. Ultimately my goal is to create a PCB for this as well, so if someone else wants to use the VP2 with an Arduino/Pi directly they can and replace the sensor.

So with that, my next goal is wind sensors. This will also introduce me to analog inputs, as the wind vane is a potentiometer. So while I wait for my temp/humidity parts, I can get cracking on wind speed.

Davis Vantage Pro 2 Open Weather Station – Part 2: Moar Sensors

As I was writing up last night’s post, a few things slipped my mind. Namely, the number of sensors I have on my VP2. When I bought it, I wanted the best of the best. And so, I sprung for the VP2 “Plus” which included Solar Radiation (SRad), UV, as well as a Fan Aspirated Radiation Shield (FARS). Something I also did not mention was I have a standard VP2 at my house, which will make prototyping significantly easier. However I am missing those sensors at home. Also, a few years back, I added Soil Temp and Moisture at 4 depths as well as a “Leaf wetness sensor. So that’s 8 total sensors just for soil! These sensors use their own transmitter, and funny enough, i’ve never had issues with it. So with that, here is the list of sensors I will need to accommodate for in my design:

  • SHT31 Temperature/Humidity
  • Wind Direction/Speed
  • Tipping bucket rain gauge
  • Solar Radiation
  • UV
  • 4x Soil Moisture
  • 4x Soil Temp
  • Leaf Wetness
  • Pressure (not provided in Davis unit. Will need external sensor. Probably BMP something or other)

Let’s take a look specifically at the Soil Moisture and Temp sensors.

Per the guide located here the temp sensor is a standard resistance based temp sensor. From my initial reading, it sounds like that’s a bit more of a challenge to get working with a Pi directly. So that’ll be fun to learn!

Time for your probing.

Now the soil moisture is very similar, in that it uses resistance to determine soil moisture. It appears to be a “Watermark sensor from Irrometer” again this is a two wire setup, so it may not work directly with the Pi and i’ll need to figure that out.

4 of these bad bois are buried under my station.

Finally the leaf wetness sensor. There’s also not a ton of documentation around this and using it with a Pi. So i’ll need to do some additional research and understand how they work.

So that’s the soil/temp/leaf. Seems like it’s gonna be a tad more complicated than the standard sensors. Also seems like i’ll need to pick up a couple just to play with and prototype with.

Here comes the sun

Now for the other two sensors. UV and Solar Radiation. As I suspected, the UV sensor apparently uses a photodiode that only responds to radiation in the region of interest. Based on the spec sheet it appears to simply send voltage back. From 150 per UV Index, up to 2.5 VDC. So that shouldn’t be too hard to measure.

UV Sensor in all it’s glory.

So now solar radiation. It also is used to calculate evapotranspiration (one of my favorite words in meteorology) and again based on the spec sheet it acts in the same way as the UV sensor, sending voltage with 1.67mV per W/m2 (Watts per meter squared).

So really it seems like the UV/Solar sensors are gonna be pretty straightforward. They already do the easy stuff in the sensor itself, I just gotta measure the voltage coming back from the sensor.

So it seems i’ll need to start exploring Analog to Digital conversions to use all this stuff with the raspberry Pi. Truthfully my experience thus far with the RPi has never really utilized the GPIO connectors. Although I did build a light sensor that controls a monitor using a photoresistor and a capacitor. So I have some vague understanding, but this is on a whole other level.

The live weather display I built. There is a light sensor behind the screen that activates when the lights come on to “unsleep” the monitor, then sleep it when the lights turn off. It’s been working great for over 4 years!

So looks like i have a few more things to think about with prototyping! Gonna order some Analog to Digital converters (Should only need one but but I better get more in case i mess one up which i probably will) and start understanding how analog to SPI works. I was worried about having enough pins on the GPIO, but at this point given the ADC will take a bunch of analog inputs and put them on a single SPI, I should be OK.

Davis Vantage Pro 2 Open Weather Station – Part 1

What am I on about? What does the title mean. Well it goes a bit like this. Ever since 2013 I have operated a Davis Vantage Pro 2 weather station in my hometown in Kansas. When I was living in Oklahoma, the station was about 300 miles away, however now i’m closer, at about 70 miles. This certainly has not made administration of this station any easier. Since I’ve installed it, i’ve faced various problems, one of those i’m attempting to solve with this project.

First off let’s talk about the current setup. I’ve been very fortunate that the station is located at an educational facility, that provides me full access to the internet as well as power. So with this, I placed the station in a suitable location, approximately 100 ft from the building in an open field.

Station During install. Note the ISS not in it’s final position.

This is a wireless station, so what about the receiver. Currently it’s using a Wireless Envoy, however it started out using the VP2 console, which is enclosed in an outdoor housing from Davis:

VP2 console in the official Davis outdoor enclosure. Note it has been replaced with an Envoy at this time.

So we have the station sending and receiving data. Now what? This is where things have changed a lot. I’ve been through multiple iterations of this station. Let’s see if I can remember everything i’ve done in the correct order:

1: Started with the Vantage Pro 2 install in 2013. Used the Davis software on a Windows XP machine. Data was sent via FTP to a web server hosted in a colo facility. Do not recommend this approach, as the XP machine was hilariously unreliable and the software just not good.

2: Raspberry Pi. I came to my senses and installed a different software on a Raspberry Pi. I went with WView as it was quite popular at the time amongst users.

3: Raspberry Pi 4 with WeeWX. WView severely limited my ability to customize the setup. I don’t know C and I don’t want to re-compile after every single change. Couple that with the fact that WView is no longer in development, a change was needed. I also got word my Colo facility was shutting down my server (I was getting it for free from a friend anyway) so I needed to move to AWS fast. WeeWX had the ability to do this and the performance uploading to AWS on the original Pi was abysmal. Upgrading to a Pi4 was the right option. Which is how things are setup now.

This post and the blog really is going to focus on the hardware/station side of things. I’ll be writing a separate blog post for work on how i’m moving forward with AWS IoT for this station. So finally what am I doing? Well i’ve had some problems with the station that include:

  • Power outages at the facility, knocking the Pi off power.
  • Internet outages. This is in a rural area and we don’t have the luxury of fiber like I have at my home. We have a 35mbps connection delivered by Point to point wireless. It works OK but has outages. This prevents the data from being uploaded to AWS.
  • Signal issues. I’ve been fighting this for months now, and even over a year. I get random drops where the station just falls off the map. Sometimes for days on end, then comes back online like nothing happened. I’ve changed channels, i’ve replaced boards, i’ve replaced receivers (hence why i have an Envoy now vs a console) and it’s still happening. Sometime’s it’s solid for WEEKS and sometimes it won’t go two days without dropping.
This is a Zabbix graph I created which show the RX (which is really percentage of good packets) from the station.

So what are the solutions to these problems?

  • Power: Get a UPS you dingus! Well yes this is a fair point, we would need to put the entire internet setup on a UPS as well, and then we are not guaranteed a long runtime unless we invest in a large capacity unit, which is not a high priority.
  • Internet: Run off LTE! It’s definitely something i’ve considered. But again, i’d need to also think about power as well, since without power, the LTE is no good. Couple this with being in a metal building, LTE would also require external antenna. It’s definitely the lowest priority issue.
  • Signal: This is the issue i’m solving. First thing I considered was getting a cabled station. You can convert the ISS to a cabled board, but the investment is significant. As well as digging a trench, running the cable, etc. It’s a lot of work. So that’s out. So I started thinking do I really need the Davis stuff? Which has led to this project.

Enter the smol computers

When you take it all apart, the VP2 is not really anything special. The sensors are actually fairly straight forward. I came across this post (http://cactus.io/hookups/weather/anemometer/davis/hookup-arduino-to-davis-anemometer) which goes into details about the wind at least. Turns out the vane is just a potentiometer and the anemometer just a switch. Most likely a reed switch similar to the rain gauge. So as far as the sensors are concerned, they have no idea they are in a weather station. The rain gauge also operates using a simple Reed switch.

The temperature/humidity board is an SHT31 just in a different package. This does not include a pressure sensor, which they annoyingly placed inside the console or Envoy unit.

So with all that being said, what does Davis do? Well they take this raw sensor data, they package it up on the ISS board, and then send it via wireless or wired in their own way. Now others have cracked the code and built their own receivers for these stations. But i’m looking to remove the Davis from the Davis entirely and remove the entire wireless setup.

So if i’m looking to remove wireless, what about the power and the internet from the educational institution? Don’t you need that still? I’m thinking I don’t, and i’m thinking the Raspberry Pi is the solution. By interfacing the sensors directly with the Pi, I would be able to take the raw data from the sensors, and upload that to the cloud. With recent upgrades, i’m expecting wifi range at the station, and also have been provided with a Cradlepoint unit from a colleague that I will be utilizing for LTE backup. Power will be provided via a Lead acid battery, charged via a large solar panel. Having the Pi at the station will also allow me to add additional functionality, including a camera.

So what is the goal? What is the point of this rambling? By the end of this project, I hope to have a PCB that I can attach to a Pi (or Pi Zero) and be able to ingest sensor data from a VP2 and have it be more reliable than the current setup. Obviously there are lots of factors to consider, things such as:

  • Weatherproofing. Can’t have a Pi in the rain. Looking at using knock-off Pelican “Apache” cases from Harbor Freight as a good option, which leads to the next concern…
  • Temperature: It gets hot and cold in KS. So the entire setup needs to be able to withstand high and low temps, as well as humidity.
  • Reliability: Ulimately the Pi is a small Linux computer. Computers aren’t always our friends. So I need to make sure the setup is as low-touch as possible and I can’t be messing with it every day. Given the amount of custom work i’ll be doing, this is definitely a major concern.

So stay tuned! This is just the first of hopefully many posts as I begin prototyping, and hopefully much shorter, less rambly posts going forward.